Princess Cut Diamonds: Complete Guide to Shape, Sparkle, Value & Buying Tips
Learn everything about princess cut diamonds, including sparkle, proportions, pricing, settings, pros and cons, and expert advice on choosing the perfect stone
First developed in the 1970s, the princess cut quickly gained popularity due to its ability to maximise brilliance while retaining more of the original rough diamond during cutting. Today, it remains a favourite choice for engagement rings and jewellery buyers who want a square-shaped diamond with intense sparkle and a clean, modern aesthetic.
In this guide, we’ll explain everything you need to know about princess cut diamonds, including their history, proportions, sparkle, pricing, advantages, disadvantages, and how to choose the best princess cut loose diamond.
What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?
A princess cut diamond is a square-shaped brilliant-cut diamond with sharp corners and a highly faceted design that produces strong sparkle and fire.
Unlike step-cut shapes such as Asscher or emerald cuts, princess cuts are designed for maximum brilliance, making them one of the most sparkly square diamond shapes available.
Key characteristics include:
- Square shape with sharp corners
- Brilliant-cut faceting
- Strong sparkle and fire
- Modern, geometric appearance
- Excellent light performance
Because of their faceting structure, princess cuts offer a combination of bold shape and high brilliance.
How To Choose a Princess Cut
Prioritise Cut Quality
Cut quality has a major impact on sparkle and overall appearance. Well-cut princess diamonds will show even brilliance across the entire stone.
Assess Symmetry
Good symmetry ensures the diamond appears balanced and square when viewed from above.
Consider Light Performance
A well-proportioned princess cut will show strong brilliance with minimal dark areas.
Balance Colour and Clarity
Princess cuts hide inclusions reasonably well, offering flexibility when selecting clarity and colour grades.
Which Princess Cut Is Best?
There is no single “best” princess cut diamond — the ideal choice depends on personal preference.
- Choose excellent or ideal cut quality for maximum sparkle.
- Choose strong symmetry for a perfectly square appearance.
- Choose a setting that protects the corners.
- Choose balanced proportions for even light return.
- Choose higher clarity for the cleanest appearance.
Why Choose a Princess Cut?
Strong Modern Sparkle
Princess cuts deliver excellent brilliance and fire, making them one of the most sparkly square diamond shapes.
Contemporary Geometric Style
The sharp square outline creates a bold, modern aesthetic.
Excellent Value
Princess cuts often retain more of the rough diamond during cutting, which can make them more affordable than round brilliant diamonds.
Versatile Appearance
They work well in a wide range of engagement ring and jewellery designs.
Pros and Cons
Advantages
- Strong brilliance and sparkle
- Modern, geometric appearance
- Often better value than round diamonds
- Square shape suits many designs
- Hides inclusions reasonably well
Disadvantages
- Sharp corners are vulnerable
- Can show more dark areas if poorly cut
- Less traditional than round or cushion cuts
- Requires secure setting for durability
Proportions Guide
When choosing a princess cut diamond, proportions play a key role in sparkle and overall shape.
Recommended Depth
68%–75%
Recommended Table
58%–68%
Length-to-Width Ratio
Perfect Square Princess
1.00–1.05
Slightly Rectangular Princess
1.05–1.10
Most buyers prefer a near-perfect square for the classic princess cut look.
Princess Cut vs Cushion Cut
Princess and cushion cuts are both square-shaped diamonds, but they differ significantly in appearance.
Princess cuts have sharp corners and a modern geometric look with strong brilliance.
Cushion cuts have rounded corners and a softer, more romantic appearance with a vintage feel.
Princess cuts feel bold and contemporary, while cushion cuts feel softer and more traditional.
Best Settings for Princess Cut
Solitaire Rings
A solitaire setting highlights the clean square shape and brilliance.
Four-Prong Settings
A popular choice that secures the corners while showcasing sparkle.
Halo Rings
Enhances perceived size and adds extra brilliance.
Hidden Halo Settings
Adds subtle sparkle without changing the face-up appearance.
Channel Settings
Ideal for adding durability and a sleek modern design.
Are Princess Cuts Good Value?
Yes. Princess cut diamonds are often considered excellent value for money.
They retain more of the original rough diamond compared to round brilliant cuts, which can improve cutting efficiency and reduce cost. At the same time, they deliver strong brilliance and a modern aesthetic.
For buyers seeking a square diamond with maximum sparkle and strong value, princess cuts are a highly attractive option.
History of the Princess Cut Diamond
The princess cut was developed in the 1970s by diamond designers including Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz.
The design was created to combine the brilliance of round diamonds with the square shape of fancy cuts while maximising yield from rough diamonds.
Since its introduction, the princess cut has become one of the most widely used square diamond shapes in the world.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a princess cut diamond?
A princess cut diamond is a square brilliant-cut diamond known for its sharp corners and strong sparkle.
Do princess cut diamonds sparkle a lot?
Yes. Princess cuts are highly brilliant and offer excellent sparkle and fire.
Are princess cut diamonds popular?
Yes. They are one of the most popular modern diamond shapes for engagement rings.
Do princess cut diamonds look bigger than round diamonds?
They can appear slightly larger face-up due to their square outline and corner-to-corner spread.
Are princess cut diamonds good for engagement rings?
Yes. They are a popular choice thanks to their brilliance and modern appearance.
Are princess cuts more affordable?
Often yes, due to higher yield during cutting compared to round diamonds.
What is the best clarity for a princess cut diamond?
VS2 or higher is often recommended for the cleanest appearance.
Do princess cut diamonds hide inclusions?
Yes, reasonably well due to their brilliant faceting.
Are princess cut diamonds fragile?
The sharp corners are more vulnerable and should be protected in a setting.
What is the best setting for a princess cut diamond?
Four-prong or bezel settings are commonly used to protect the corners.
Shop Princess Cut Diamonds
Explore our collection of hand-selected Princess Cut loose diamonds, available in a range of carat weights, colours, and clarity grades. Whether you're searching for the perfect centre stone for a bespoke piece or comparing options for an engagement ring design, our experts can help you find the ideal Princess Cut diamond.