Oval Diamonds: Complete Guide to Shape, Sparkle, Value & Buying Tips
Learn everything about oval diamonds, including sparkle, proportions, pricing, settings, pros and cons, and expert advice on choosing the perfect stone
Originally developed in the 1950s as a modern adaptation of the round brilliant, oval diamonds offer a timeless yet contemporary appearance. Their elongated shape can create the illusion of longer, slimmer fingers while often appearing larger than other diamond shapes of the same carat weight.
In this guide, we'll explain everything you need to know about oval cut diamonds, including their history, proportions, sparkle, pricing, advantages, disadvantages, and how to choose the best oval cut loose diamond.
What Is an Oval Diamond?
An oval cut diamond is an elongated brilliant-cut diamond with a symmetrical oval outline and rounded edges.
Oval diamonds typically contain 58 facets, similar to round brilliant diamonds, allowing them to deliver excellent light return and sparkle. Their elongated shape helps maximise surface area, often making them appear larger than other diamond shapes of the same carat weight.
Key characteristics include:
- Elongated oval shape
- Brilliant-cut faceting
- Excellent sparkle and fire
- Larger face-up appearance
- Elegant, finger-lengthening effect
Because of their versatility and brilliance, oval diamonds work beautifully in both classic and modern jewellery designs.
How To Choose an Oval
Pay Attention to the Bow-Tie Effect
Many oval diamonds display a dark bow-tie shape across the centre. A slight bow-tie is normal, but excessive darkness can reduce visual appeal.
Consider Length-to-Width Ratio
The ratio affects whether the diamond appears more rounded or elongated.
Focus on Light Performance
Two oval diamonds with similar specifications can perform very differently. Images and videos are particularly useful when comparing stones.
Choose a Shape You Love
Some buyers prefer shorter, fuller ovals, while others prefer longer, more elegant silhouettes.
Which Oval Cut Is Best?
There is no single "best" oval cut diamond. The ideal choice depends on your personal preferences.
- Choose a shorter oval for a fuller appearance.
- Choose a longer oval for a more elongated and elegant shape.
- Choose minimal bow-tie visibility for maximum brilliance.
- Choose excellent symmetry for the most balanced appearance.
- Choose a larger face-up spread if visual size is a priority.
When comparing oval cut diamonds, always review images or videos whenever possible, as light performance can vary significantly from one stone to another.
Why Choose an Oval?
Exceptional Sparkle
Oval diamonds offer brilliance similar to round brilliant diamonds, making them one of the sparkliest fancy shapes available.
Larger Appearance
Due to their elongated shape and larger surface area, oval diamonds often appear bigger than many other shapes of the same carat weight.
Elegant Shape
The elongated silhouette creates a sophisticated appearance that flatters the hand.
Timeless Popularity
Oval diamonds have remained fashionable for decades and continue to be one of the most popular diamond shapes worldwide.
Pros and Cons
Advantages
- Excellent brilliance and fire
- Appears larger than many other shapes
- Elegant elongated silhouette
- Popular and timeless design
- Suitable for many settings
Disadvantages
- Bow-tie effect may be visible
- Quality can vary significantly between stones
- Elongated shapes may be more vulnerable at the ends
- Requires careful proportion selection
Proportions Guide
When choosing an oval cut diamond, proportions play a major role in appearance and sparkle.
Recommended Depth
58%–63%
Recommended Table
53%–63%
Length-to-Width Ratio
Classic Oval
1.35–1.50
Elongated Oval
1.50–1.65
Rounded Oval
1.25–1.35
The ideal ratio depends entirely on personal preference.
Oval vs Cushion Cut
Oval and cushion cut diamonds are both popular alternatives to the traditional round brilliant, but they offer very different appearances.
Oval diamonds feature an elongated silhouette that often appears larger for its carat weight and can create a finger-lengthening effect.
Cushion cuts have rounded corners and a softer square or rectangular outline, offering a more romantic and vintage-inspired appearance.
Both are beautiful choices — the decision comes down to whether you prefer the elegant elongation of an oval or the classic softness of a cushion cut.
Best Settings for Ovals
Solitaire Rings
A solitaire setting highlights the oval diamond's shape and brilliance.
Hidden Halo Rings
A hidden halo adds additional sparkle without altering the face-up appearance.
Halo Rings
Halo settings can increase perceived size and overall brilliance.
Three Stone Rings
Three stone designs complement the elongated shape while adding visual impact.
Are Ovals Good Value?
Yes. Oval cut diamonds are often considered one of the best-value diamond shapes available.
They typically cost less than round brilliant diamonds of similar quality while delivering comparable sparkle and often appearing larger face-up. This allows buyers to maximise visual impact without necessarily increasing budget.
For buyers seeking brilliance, size, and elegance, oval diamonds often represent an excellent balance of beauty and value.
History of the Oval Diamond
The modern oval cut diamond was developed in 1957 by Russian diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan.
Kaplan adapted the brilliant-cut faceting style used in round diamonds into an elongated oval shape, creating a diamond that offered exceptional sparkle while appearing larger than its carat weight might suggest.
Since its introduction, the oval cut has grown steadily in popularity and is now one of the most sought-after diamond shapes in the world.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is an oval cut diamond?
An oval cut diamond is an elongated brilliant-cut diamond known for its sparkle, elegance, and larger face-up appearance.
Are oval cut diamonds popular?
Yes. Oval diamonds are among the most popular diamond shapes due to their brilliance and timeless appeal.
Do oval diamonds sparkle as much as round diamonds?
Oval diamonds can offer sparkle very similar to round brilliant diamonds, although light performance varies between stones.
What is the bow-tie effect in an oval diamond?
The bow-tie effect is a dark shadow that can appear across the centre of some oval diamonds. A slight bow-tie is normal, but excessive darkness is generally less desirable.
Do oval diamonds look bigger than round diamonds?
Yes. Oval diamonds often appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight because of their elongated shape and greater surface area.
Are oval cut diamonds good for engagement rings?
Yes. Oval diamonds are one of the most popular choices for engagement rings thanks to their brilliance and elegant shape.
What is the best length-to-width ratio for an oval diamond?
Many buyers prefer ratios between 1.35 and 1.50, although the ideal ratio depends on personal preference.
Are oval diamonds more expensive than cushion diamonds?
Prices vary, but oval diamonds are often slightly more expensive than cushion cuts due to demand and cutting yield.
What clarity is best for an oval diamond?
Many buyers find that VS2 clarity or higher offers an excellent balance between appearance and value.
What is a Moval Diamond?
A moval diamond is a hybrid diamond shape that combines characteristics of both a marquise cut and an oval cut. The name "moval" comes from merging the words marquise and oval.
Moval diamonds feature an elongated oval outline with gently pointed ends, creating a shape that appears elegant and distinctive while offering a larger face-up appearance than many traditional diamond cuts. They provide a unique alternative for buyers who like the brilliance of an oval diamond but want a more unusual and eye-catching silhouette.
Shop Oval Diamonds
Explore our collection of hand-selected Oval loose diamonds, available in a range of carat weights, colours, and clarity grades. Whether you're searching for the perfect centre stone for a bespoke piece or comparing options for an engagement ring design, our experts can help you find the ideal Oval diamond.