Marquise Diamonds: Complete Guide to Shape, Sparkle, Value & Buying Tips
Learn everything about marquise diamonds, including sparkle, proportions, pricing, settings, pros and cons, and expert advice on choosing the perfect stone
Often referred to as the "navette" cut, meaning little boat in French, the marquise shape can make fingers appear longer and slimmer while offering one of the largest face-up appearances of any diamond shape. Its unique silhouette has remained popular for centuries and continues to appeal to buyers seeking something different from traditional diamond cuts.
In this guide, we'll explain everything you need to know about marquise cut diamonds, including their history, proportions, sparkle, pricing, advantages, disadvantages, and how to choose the best marquise cut loose diamond.
What Is a Marquise Diamond?
A marquise cut diamond is an elongated brilliant-cut diamond featuring curved sides and pointed ends.
The shape is designed to maximise carat weight, often making marquise diamonds appear larger than many other diamond shapes of the same weight. Like oval diamonds, marquise cuts use brilliant-style faceting to produce strong sparkle and light performance.
Key characteristics include:
- Elongated shape
- Two pointed ends
- Brilliant-cut faceting
- Large face-up appearance
- Finger-lengthening effect
The marquise cut is ideal for buyers looking for maximum visual impact and a distinctive shape.
How To Choose a Marquise
Check Symmetry Carefully
The two pointed ends should align perfectly. Even slight asymmetry can be noticeable in a marquise cut diamond.
Assess the Bow-Tie Effect
Many marquise diamonds display a bow-tie shadow across the centre. A small bow-tie is common, but excessive darkness should generally be avoided.
Consider Length-to-Width Ratio
The ratio significantly affects appearance, with some buyers preferring shorter, fuller marquise diamonds and others favouring longer, more dramatic shapes.
Examine Light Performance
Review videos and images whenever possible, as sparkle can vary considerably between stones.
Which Marquise Is Best?
There is no single "best" marquise cut diamond.
- Choose a balanced length-to-width ratio for a classic appearance.
- Choose minimal bow-tie visibility for stronger brilliance.
- Choose excellent symmetry for the most attractive outline.
- Choose strong light performance over minor differences in colour or clarity.
- Choose a shape that suits your personal style, whether fuller or more elongated.
When comparing marquise diamonds, visual inspection is particularly important because proportions can dramatically affect appearance.
Why Choose a Marquise?
Appears Larger Than Its Carat Weight
Marquise diamonds have one of the largest face-up appearances of any diamond shape, helping maximise visual impact.
Elegant Elongated Shape
The elongated silhouette creates a refined and sophisticated look.
Excellent Sparkle
Brilliant-cut faceting provides strong brilliance and fire.
Unique Appearance
The marquise cut stands out from more common diamond shapes while remaining timeless and elegant.
Pros and Cons
Advantages
- Appears larger than many other shapes
- Excellent brilliance and fire
- Elegant finger-lengthening effect
- Unique and distinctive appearance
- Strong value per carat
Disadvantages
- Bow-tie effect may be visible
- Pointed ends require protection
- Symmetry is especially important
- Less common than round or oval cuts
Proportions Guide
When choosing a marquise cut diamond, proportions strongly influence appearance and light performance.
Recommended Depth
58%–64%
Recommended Table
53%–63%
Length-to-Width Ratio
Classic Marquise
1.75–2.00
Elongated Marquise
2.00–2.25
Fuller Marquise
1.60–1.75
The ideal ratio ultimately depends on personal preference.
Marquise Cut vs Oval Cut
Marquise and oval cut diamonds share an elongated shape and strong brilliance, but they create different visual effects.
Oval diamonds have rounded ends and a softer appearance, while marquise diamonds feature pointed tips that create a more dramatic and distinctive silhouette.
Marquise diamonds often appear slightly larger face-up than oval diamonds of the same carat weight due to their extended shape.
Both are excellent choices — the decision comes down to whether you prefer the softer elegance of an oval or the bold presence of a marquise.
Best Settings for Marquise
Solitaire Rings
A solitaire setting showcases the marquise shape and maximises visual impact.
East-West Settings
An increasingly popular modern style that positions the diamond horizontally.
Halo Rings
Halo settings increase perceived size and add extra sparkle.
Three Stone Rings
Creates additional presence while highlighting the distinctive centre stone.
V-Prong Settings
Often used to protect the delicate pointed ends of the diamond.
Are Marquise Cuts Good Value?
Yes. Marquise cut diamonds are often considered one of the best-value diamond shapes available.
Their elongated shape maximises face-up size, allowing buyers to achieve a larger-looking diamond without necessarily increasing carat weight. In many cases, marquise diamonds are also less expensive than round brilliant diamonds of similar quality.
For buyers seeking maximum visual impact, strong brilliance, and excellent value, the marquise cut is often an outstanding choice.
History of the Marquise Cut Diamond
The marquise cut dates back to 18th-century France and is widely believed to have been commissioned by King Louis XV.
According to legend, the king requested a diamond shape inspired by the smile of Madame de Pompadour. The resulting elongated shape became known as the marquise cut and has remained one of the most distinctive diamond designs ever created.
Over the centuries, improvements in cutting technology have refined the marquise cut while preserving its elegant and recognisable silhouette.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a marquise cut diamond?
A marquise cut diamond is an elongated brilliant-cut diamond with curved sides and pointed ends.
Do marquise diamonds look bigger than other shapes?
Yes. Marquise diamonds often appear larger than many other diamond shapes of the same carat weight because of their elongated outline.
Are marquise diamonds popular?
Yes. While less common than round or oval diamonds, marquise cuts remain popular among buyers looking for a unique and elegant shape.
Do marquise diamonds sparkle?
Yes. Marquise diamonds use brilliant-cut faceting and can produce excellent sparkle and fire.
What is the bow-tie effect in a marquise diamond?
The bow-tie effect is a dark shadow that may appear across the centre of some marquise diamonds. A slight bow-tie is normal, but excessive darkness can reduce visual appeal.
Are marquise diamonds good value?
Yes. Their large face-up appearance and relatively competitive pricing often make them excellent value for money.
What is the best length-to-width ratio for a marquise diamond?
Many buyers prefer ratios between 1.75 and 2.00, although the ideal shape depends on personal preference.
Are marquise diamonds good for engagement rings?
Yes. Their unique appearance, brilliance, and finger-lengthening effect make them a popular engagement ring choice.
Are marquise diamonds fragile?
The pointed ends are more vulnerable than rounded shapes, which is why protective settings are recommended.
What is a moval diamond?
A moval diamond is a hybrid shape that combines characteristics of both a marquise and an oval cut diamond, featuring softly pointed ends and an elongated outline.
Shop Marquise Diamonds
Explore our collection of hand-selected Marquise Cut loose diamonds, available in a range of carat weights, colours, and clarity grades. Whether you're searching for the perfect centre stone for a bespoke piece or comparing options for an engagement ring design, our experts can help you find the ideal Marquise Cut diamond.