Asscher Cut Diamonds: Complete Guide to Shape, Sparkle, Value & Buying Tips
Learn everything about asscher cut diamonds, including sparkle, proportions, pricing, settings, pros and cons, and expert advice on choosing the perfect stone
Originally developed in the early 1900s by the Asscher brothers, this cut became iconic during the Art Deco era, where clean lines and geometric design were highly celebrated. Today, Asscher cut diamonds are chosen by buyers looking for vintage elegance, clarity-focused beauty, and a unique alternative to more common diamond shapes.
In this guide, we’ll explain everything you need to know about Asscher cut diamonds, including their history, proportions, sparkle characteristics, pricing, advantages, disadvantages, and how to choose the best Asscher cut loose diamond for your jewellery design.
What Is an Asscher Cut diamond?
An Asscher cut diamond is a square-shaped step-cut diamond with cropped corners and a distinctive X-shaped facet pattern when viewed from above.
Unlike brilliant cuts, Asscher cuts are designed for clarity and symmetry rather than intense sparkle. They typically feature large, open facets that create dramatic flashes of light and a glassy, hall-of-mirrors effect.
Key characteristics include:
- Square shape with cropped corners
- Step-cut faceting
- High clarity appearance
- Distinct geometric symmetry
- Vintage Art Deco design aesthetic
Because Asscher cuts emphasise clarity, inclusions are often more visible compared to brilliant cuts, making diamond quality especially important when selecting a stone.
How To Choose an Asscher Cut
Focus on Clarity
Because Asscher cuts have large open facets, inclusions are often easier to see than in brilliant-cut diamonds. For the best appearance, many buyers choose VS2 clarity or higher.
Prioritise Symmetry
The Asscher cut is prized for its geometric precision. Excellent symmetry helps create the crisp hall-of-mirrors effect that makes this shape so distinctive.
Consider Depth and Table
Depth and table percentages influence how much light is reflected and how large the diamond appears face-up. Well-balanced proportions typically produce the most attractive appearance.
Choose the Right Ratio
Most Asscher cut diamonds are square, with a length-to-width ratio close to 1.00. Slightly rectangular stones are available but are less common.
Why Choose an Asscher Cut?
Unique Vintage Appeal
Asscher cuts are strongly associated with the Art Deco era, making them a standout choice for buyers looking for something less conventional than brilliant cuts.
Striking Clarity & Structure
The step-cut design highlights clarity and creates a clean, architectural look that feels refined and sophisticated.
Distinct Hall of Mirrors Effect
Instead of intense sparkle, Asscher cuts produce bold flashes and depth, giving the diamond a unique visual identity.
Ideal for Bespoke Designs
Asscher cuts work particularly well in custom settings where symmetry and geometry are key design features.
Pros and Cons
Advantages
Distinctive vintage-inspired appearance
Strong symmetry and geometric beauty
Excellent for clarity-focused diamonds
Timeless Art Deco aesthetic
Works well in bespoke settings
Disadvantages
Less sparkle than brilliant cuts
Inclusions are more visible due to step-cut faceting
Requires higher clarity grades for best appearance
Can appear smaller face-up than brilliant shapes
Proportions Guide
When choosing an Asscher cut diamond, proportions strongly influence appearance and light performance.
Recommended Depth:
60%–72%
Recommended Table:
60%–69%
Length to Width Ratio:
Square Asscher
1.00–1.05
Slightly Rectangular Asscher
1.06–1.15
The ideal proportions depend on whether you prefer a perfectly square silhouette or a slightly elongated, elegant shape.
Asscher Cut vs Cushion Cut
Asscher and cushion cuts are often compared because both offer square silhouettes, but their appearance is very different.
Cushion cut diamonds have rounded corners and brilliant faceting, producing soft sparkle and a romantic appearance.
Asscher cut diamonds, on the other hand, feature sharp symmetry and step-cut facets, creating a more structured, vintage, and geometric look with less sparkle but more depth and contrast.
Both are elegant choices — the key difference is whether you prefer soft brilliance (cushion) or architectural clarity and symmetry (Asscher).
Best Settings for Asschers
Solitaire Rings
A solitaire setting highlights the symmetry and structure of the Asscher cut.
Bezel Settings
A bezel enhances the geometric shape and offers a modern, secure design.
Art Deco Inspired Settings
Perfectly complements the vintage origins of the Asscher cut.
Three Stone Rings
Adds balance and emphasises the central geometric shape.
Are Asschers Good Value?
Asscher cut diamonds can offer strong value compared to round brilliant diamonds, particularly for buyers prioritising character, clarity, and unique design.
Because Asscher cuts retain more of the original rough diamond during cutting, they can sometimes be more cost-efficient than round brilliants.
However, high-quality Asscher cuts require excellent clarity and precision cutting, meaning premium stones can still command strong pricing.
For buyers seeking a distinctive, vintage-inspired diamond with strong architectural presence, Asscher cuts offer excellent long-term appeal and individuality.
History of the Asscher Cut Diamond
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by the Asscher brothers in Amsterdam, renowned diamond cutters who later played a major role in shaping modern diamond cutting standards.
The design became especially popular during the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s, when geometric design and bold symmetry were highly influential in architecture and jewellery.
After declining in popularity for several decades, the Asscher cut experienced a revival in the early 2000s, driven by renewed interest in vintage-inspired diamond shapes.
Today, it remains a niche but highly desirable choice for buyers seeking something unique and historically rich.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is an Asscher cut diamond?
An Asscher cut diamond is a square step-cut diamond known for its geometric symmetry and hall-of-mirrors light effect.
Are Asscher cut diamonds good?
Yes. Asscher cuts are highly valued for their clarity, symmetry, and vintage Art Deco appearance.
Do Asscher cut diamonds sparkle?
Asscher cuts do not sparkle like brilliant cuts. Instead, they produce bold flashes of light and a deep, glass-like effect.
Are Asscher cut diamonds expensive?
They are often comparable to other fancy shapes, but high-quality Asscher cuts with excellent clarity can be more expensive due to cutting precision requirements.
What is the difference between Asscher and cushion cut diamonds?
Asscher cuts are geometric and step-cut with sharp symmetry, while cushion cuts are rounded and brilliant with softer sparkle.
Are Asscher cut diamonds good for engagement rings?
Yes. Asscher cuts are a popular choice for engagement rings due to their vintage style and distinctive appearance.
Why are Asscher cut diamonds less sparkly?
Because they use step-cut faceting, which reflects light in broad flashes rather than intense brilliance.
Do Asscher cut diamonds look smaller?
Yes, Asscher cuts can appear slightly smaller face-up compared to brilliant cuts of the same carat weight due to their depth.
What clarity is best for Asscher cut diamonds?
Higher clarity grades (typically VS2 or above) are recommended because inclusions are more visible in step-cut diamonds.
Shop Asscher Cut Diamonds
Explore our collection of hand-selected Asscher cut loose diamonds, available in a range of carat weights, colours, and clarity grades. Whether you're searching for the perfect centre stone for a bespoke piece or comparing options for an engagement ring design, our experts can help you find the ideal Asscher cut diamond.